Photoprotection in Skin of Color: Understanding Photodamage and Optimizing Sunscreen Strategies
June 2026
Dr. Susan Taylor presented information about personalized photoprotection strategies for individuals with skin of color. Photoprotection is the process of preventing the deleterious effects of the electromagnetic radiation (EMR) spectrum, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR), visible light (VL), and infrared light on the skin. It is necessary to maintain skin health and prevent photodamage, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis.
Susan Taylor, MD, Bernett Johnson Professor of Dermatology at the Perelman School of Medicine, University of Pennsylvania, in Philadelphia
Taylor emphasized that photoprotection is a group of strategies that includes sunscreen, sun-protective clothing and accessories, and sun avoidance.
First, Taylor described the effects of the EMR spectrum on skin. UVR stimulates vitamin D production but generates reactive oxygen species and cytokines and depletes antioxidants, leading to photoaging. Acute effects of UVR exposure include erythema, pigmentation, acquired immunity suppression, and innate immunity enhancement; long-term effects include photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. UVA light penetrates the dermis, causing indirect DNA damage and photoaging. UVB is absorbed in the epidermis, inducing sunburn and direct DNA damage.
Taylor emphasized the role of VL in photoaging. Only 5% of UVR reaches the earth’s surface, but 50% of VL does. VL generates reactive oxygen and nitrogen species. The biological effects of VL are mediated through cutaneous photoreceptive chromophores. Blue light (high energy VL) affects pigmentation by increasing melanogenesis, especially in people with skin of color.
Second, Taylor discussed the differences in photoaging between different skin tones. Photoaging in Fitzpatrick Skin Types (FST) I-III ranges from atrophic to hypertrophic. Atrophic aging includes erythema, telangiectasias, and more frequent actinic keratosis, seborrheic keratosis, and skin cancer. Hypertrophic aging features include less erythema, abundant wrinkles, increased skin thickness, sallowness, and a higher global photoaging score.
Taylor highlighted that photoaging does occur in people with skin of color (FST skin types IV-VI) but looks different because of the protective effects of melanin, genetics, and DNA repair. People with skin of color have fewer wrinkles, deeper rhytids, less atrophy, leathery skin, and more frequent dyschromia. The primary manifestations of photoaging in Asian skin are pigmentary changes, rhytids, laxity, and coarse skin. Pigmentary changes appear earlier and rhytids appear later in Asian skin compared to FST I-III skin. Photoaging in Black skin is characterized by dyschromia, benign growths, skin laxity, sagging, and deeper rhytids. Patterns of photoaging in the Latine population vary by skin color.
Taylor noted that cutaneous malignancies occur more often in lighter skin tones, but she also warned dermatologists not to be tricked and to be alert for cutaneous malignancies in people with skin of color. Melanoma in those with skin of color typically presents in acral distributions and mucus membranes and is less related to UVR.
Third, Taylor discussed photoprotection strategies, including sunscreen and sun-protective clothing. Sunscreens reflect and absorb UVR. They are regulated as over-the-counter agents rather than cosmetics and require rigorous FDA approval and strict labeling criteria. The European Union has approved more sunscreen filters versus the United States with improved efficacy, especially against long-wave UVA. The level of UV filtering increases with increasing sun protection factor (SPF) and plateaus around SPF 30; in real-world use, most people apply 3-4 times less sunscreen than needed to achieve the labeled SPF.
Sunscreens may be organic (chemical) or mineral. Organic sunscreens absorb UVR and primarily protect against UVB. Organic UVB filters include padimates, cinnamates, and salicylates; organic UVA filters include benzophenones, avobenzone, and ecamsule. Some patients react to organic sunscreens, most commonly benzophenone, alphatocopherol, and fragrances. These patients should use mineral sunscreen.
Mineral sunscreens include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. They are stable and less irritating than organic sunscreens. Mineral sunscreens offer broad-spectrum protection against UVB and short-wavelength UVA but not against long-wavelength UVA or VL. Nanotechnology techniques have reduced the particle size of mineral sunscreens so they are more transparent, but this decreases their absorbance range.
Most available sunscreens do not protect against VL, which causes pigmentary changes seen in people with skin of color. Iron oxide adds a tint to sunscreens that blocks VL and can match patients’ skin color. Sunscreens with antioxidants including vitamin C, vitamin E, licochalcone, glycyrrhetinic acid, and diethylhexyl dyringylidene malonate may protect against pigmentation caused by VL. Taylor recommends tinted sunscreen or sunscreen with antioxidants for patients with skin of color, especially those with dyschromia or pigmentary disorders. Oral polypodium leucotomos extract protects against UVR and VL and may be used to supplement the photoprotective effects of sunscreens.
Taylor encourages all patients with skin of color to use hats, sunglasses, and photoprotective clothing in addition to sunscreen.
Mark your calendar: The DF Clinical Symposium returns January 27–31, 2027.